we prefer to use fabric-type Water Soluble Stabilizer, because it practically doesn't stretch, "sits" great in hoop
and behaves like regular nonwoven fabric until you wash it away. Fabric type water-soluble stabilizer also doesn't stiffen at all, and can be stored for many years without losing it's good qualities.
8. If one of the following situations apply, use fusible (heat-away) backing that can be removed from the embroidered item by using a hot iron: 8.1 Your fabric and design need embroidery stabilizer to remain under the stitches, but you can't use
supports 260F (120C) iron temperature - take a tiny test-piece of it, and try to iron, through a piece of paper. You'll know at once.
2. If a low quality heat-away backing is used, it may leave stains and unpleasant smell. So be careful to shop for good stuff.
3. NEVER use steam iron with heat-away topping.
1.2 When to use thin wash-away topping:
Use thin wash-away topping every time when your fabric is not suitable for use with heat-away topping, and wetting your project is not an issue. Visit this page to shop for thin Water-Soluble Topping.
1.3 When to use thick wash-away topping:
Use thick wash-away toping with really high-pile fabrics, where you would normally use two layers of thin water-soluble film. Visit this page to get some thick Water-Soluble Topping. If your fabric can support either water soluble of heat away topping - use the type you like more. It may certainly be a matter of personal preferences.
2. The heavier your fabric is, the heavier the weight of embroidery stabilizer that should be used; the lighter the fabric, the lighter the recommended machine embroidery stabilizer.
3. The denser your embroidery design, the heavier the weight of
1.1 When to use heat-away topping:
The beauty of heat-away topping is that you remove it without wetting your project. Naturally, this is the only option when you're dealing with project that can't be washed. Using heat-away topping is convenient and fast, so you may want to use it
whenever your fabric can stand a relatively hot iron. (Unless you just love to use wash-away everywhere you can). The heat-away topping that we carry requires iron
must. If you neglect to do this, your precious project will be hopelessly ruined. A topping is also great to use, if you want your design to "stand out" a little, even on regular fabric. Embroidery toppings usually remind nylon film. But don't be fooled - they shouldn't be made out of nylon. Most often, embroidery toppings are made out of gelatin-based water soluble substance, and easily get dissolved in warm water once your embroidery is finished. These water-soluble toppings are also called "wash-away", because they are washed away.
Another type of embroidery topping is heat-away, and they are removed with a hot iron. These ones are tricky. If you get a quality heat-away topping, it will be a
7 Rules For Stabilizing - When, How, Why?
By: ABC-embroidery-designs
What Is An "Embroidery Stabilizer" and Why Should We Stabilize? Embroidery stabilizers can be logically divided into two main types: "backings" and "toppings."
A "backing" is a piece of special material (usually nonwoven) that is placed UNDER the main fabric on which you intend to embroider, to make this fabric more stable.
Embroidery backings prevent fabric puckering, fabric stretching and deformation of
Stitch-opedia
An Encyclopedia of Stitches...
BYZANTINE STITCH
The Byzantine Stitch is a quick and easy stitch suitable for filling large areas of canvas. It is similar to the Jacquard Stitch, except for the added rows of continental
Byzantine Stitch (Diagram 1):
Bring the needle up at A, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at B. Bring the needle up at C, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at D. Bring the needle up at E, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at F. Bring the needle up at G, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at H. Bring the needle up at I, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at J. Bring the needle up at K, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at L. Bring the needle up at M, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at N. Bring the needle up at O, move up and to the right over
Byzantine Stitch (Diagram 2):
The second row is worked into the first row from bottom to top. The next row and all subsequent rows would be worked in the opposite direction of the row before.
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stitches that separate the Byzantine Stitches within the Jacquard Stitch. The Byzantine Stitch creates a step-like pattern. The size of the steps may vary. For a more interesting look, try using more than one color yarn. Two diagrams have been used to demonstrate this stitch. Clicking on the PRINTABLE VERSION icon, located at the end of the series of diagrams, will direct you to the page to print these instructions.
two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at P. Bring the needle up at Q, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at R. Bring the needle up at S, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at T. Bring the needle up at U, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at V. Bring the needle up at W, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at X. Bring the needle up at Y, move up and to the right over two canvas intersections, bring the needle down at Z.
This completes the first row of Byzantine Stitches. Continue on to Diagram 2 to see how the next row is worked into the first...
***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
A - I
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***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
I - Z